
It was another testing day on the Great Glen Way. A leg sapping slog along a straight single lane road high up in the hills above the northern side of Loch Ness, dodging the odd car that came chasing past. Now and again we braced ourselves for yet another heavenly soaking, and each time the shield wall of trees to our right gave way to open space, a cold wind blasted in from the moors and mountains. We could freeze and have a fleeting view, or we could be comfortable and see almost nothing of note. Having hiked the entire ninety-six miles of the West Highland Way before, a much more diverse and picturesque long distance trail, we were feeling shortchanged by the lack of variety and the monotony of the tarmac. Still, we’d seen two shy and secretive red deer, a fine and handsome slow worm basking in a rare patch of sheltered sunshine, a sty containing three hairy piglets, and in the distance some longhorn highland cattle. When the landscape hid from sight, Mother Nature was offering compensation with an eclectic menagerie. No red squirrels though. I’m starting to wonder whether they’re a myth, concocted by the Scottish Tourist Board. Have you seen one? No, I thought not.
After five or six miles of walking west from Drumnadrochit, our friends from across the Atlantic appeared, marching along the lane towards us, just as they had done yesterday and the day before. The North Carolina contingent had summoned us this far north, to join them on their latest adventure, and each day Ali and I would start from where we’d left the van at the end point. From there we’d begin to hike back along the trail until we inevitably bumped into them, then turning around and finishing the stage with them. Each time we’d compare experiences from the day so far, delving into each other’s bags of Haribo, discussing plans for supper, and wondering why none of us had remembered to bring a fully charged hip flask. This morning, they’d both taken the plunge, quite literally, each of them spending up to as long as twenty seconds immersed in the freezing waters of Loch Ness. We were impressed, especially given the unforgiving and eternally damp summer we were having this year. Still, in under a week from now they’d be sweltering in North Carolina once more, while we’d be, erm, shivering on the banks of Loch Lomond, shamed by their efforts into taking a dip of our own. I lasted for twenty seconds before making for the shore as well, but Ali managed over a minute. They build them tough in Redruth, you know.
Eventually, the trudge along the road stretch ended and the trail wound down towards the end of a day through a plantation forest filled with Sitka Spruces, tall and empty, a sterile silence spreading its solemnity from the darkest corners. No squirrels here. No birds either. Strange and gloomy places, these voids created by human hands, shunned by the natural world and seemingly unrelated to the bright green woodlands we know and love. But there’s no denying they can make for quite atmospheric photos. Here, a gap opened up to the east, showing the village of Drumnadrochit patiently awaiting our arrival in the glen far below. Alder and Anna were billeted at the backpackers’ hostel and invited us to join them for a fish and chip supper and beer later on, although they’d need an early night with the prospect of a daunting final twenty mile stint lying ahead of them tomorrow.
A little bit further on, we stopped awhile and inspected the rations, chewing on granola bars, glugging water and rustling in the bottoms of those Haribo bags again. And there, just to the left of us, a little way into the silent forest stood a triangle of bright green tips that shouted out of the darkness. There was that atmospheric photo, just when I had been neither looking for it, nor even really thinking about the camera that had been lying in my bag all afternoon. The camera was always with me, although I barely used it at all until after we’d finished the hike and moved further south again. But I’d brought it just for moments such as this. Without a tripod, I had to take a dozen or more exposures with the ISO ramped up to values where I really don’t like to take it, hoping that at least one of them wouldn’t be too blurry in the low light. This curiously unplanned approach to photography seemed to be continuing to deliver results to match the memories we’d carry home from the hillsides and silent forests of the Highlands.