The Flickr Azerbaijanstreetfood Image Generatr

Delightful seating area in the Forel fish restaurant- a sort of a garden restaurant. There were several other cars which had stopped for a meal, they were local families sitting closer to the kitchen. We are a bit isolated, but it was quieter and in more natural surroundings. We also had three or four cows walking around grazing the lush green glass. A beautifully tart sauce made from berries and a delightfully herbal juice made with plums (with two large plums still in the jug) more than made up for the overly done and burnt fish. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

We are on our long drive from Shemakha to Sheki and have stopped again about a hour later for lunch. This is Forel or grilled trout- Azerbaijan style. We had a good half an hour wait for the grilling. When it did finally appear, it was more 'burnt over a charcoal grill and charred' than grilled. The second food disappointment in Azerbaijan. Pity as the fish is caught fresh from a farm just meters away. The ambience of the cafe was great though- made up partly for the burnt fish. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

A lesson in photography: this is a perfect lesson on how not to photograph a subject- never leave a long foreground. I was eating, and was using my iPhone which did not have the benefit of zoom. (well, no optical zoom anyway). And my intention was to record the word 'Forel' before I forget- that's the local term for trout. Well, this is the kitchen of the Forel restaurant where our fish was (excessively) grilled. We were generally chatting waiting for our lunch to appear, and my guide was playing with my iPhone, so I took it from him to take this picture- the idea was not to achieve anything photographically brilliant but only to record a reminder of the word 'Forel', which is the local term for trout. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

The roadside vendor also had pickled vegetables on sale. Not of much interest to me as a tourist, but I guess for the locals, it will help them get through the harsh winters here. So we have made a brief stop here for a corn on the cob on our way to Shamakhi, and later Sheki. Shamakhi (Azerbaijan) was one of the ancient cities of the east. It became famous as the home of many prominent Azerbaijani philosophers, architects and scientists, such as Khagani, Nasimi, Bakuvi, Sabir, Shirvani, Hajibababekov. The town used to be capital of Medieval state of Shirvan and played one of the major roles in the region until its destruction in 1717 by Dagestanian semi-states. Under the Russian Empire Shamakhi was the capital of Shemakha Governorate, but the earthquake of 1859 devastateld the city. The capital was then moved to Baku and the Governorate was renamed. Shemakhi . (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

Here we are in Sheki at last- it has been a helluva long haul, and were are at a stall selling honey and local sweets outside the Khansarai (Palace of the Sheki Khans), which is one one the most attractive of the spots in Sheki. Entry into the palace is strictly by guided tour, each one taking 20min, so we still have a bit of a wait before we are let in. Throughout its history, Sheki swung between independence and foreign domination. In earlier centuries, Sheki was the seat of an Albanian kingdom, which was invaded repeatedly by the Persian, Roman, Parthian, Arab, Mongolian, and other empires. In the past millennium, Sheki fell under the influence and often the direct rule of Persia or the Shirvanshahs of Baku. Shortly after the 18th century collapse of the Safavid Empire, Sheki became the capital of the independent Sheki Khanate, during which this Khansarai was built. But Sheki's independence did not last long; it was absorbed in the early 19th century by an expansionist Russian Empire. Due to Sheki's rather tumultuous political history (in a turbulent region), the majority of Sheki's preserved historic and architectural monuments date from only the 16th to 19th centuries. (Sheki, Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

We are on our way from Baku to Shamakha and later Sheki, and we have stopped here for a cob of boiled corn. Not that we needed the snack, but we had had an early start and my guide Ibrahim and driver Bilal needed a cigarette break. I don't smoke, but I did want to take a picture of the Lada Niva 4WD car the stuff was being sold from. More on that car in later captions. Here our driver Bilal is already negotiating with the seller for our corn cobs while Ibrahim and I walk towards them.
(Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

A closer look at the typically Georgian style Tklapi hung out to dry on a dusty patch of earth right to the highway on the way from Baku to Shamakhi in Azerbaijan. Originating in neighbouring Georgia, Tklapi is a traditional Georgian puréed fruit roll-uped up like leather. It is spread thinly onto a sheet and sun-dried on a clothesline. It can be sour or sweet. The sour version is made of Tkemali plums, which are often used for soups and stews, mostly with Kharcho. Sweet Tklapi is made of apricots or peaches. It can also be prepared by the juice that is used in making Churchkhela. (another sausage-like fruit puree dish but also packed with nuts). Although Tklapi is super tasty, as it is fruit based (I wouldn't buy it here though due to the dust and vehicle emissions it is dried in), it is super chewy and tough and takes an awful lot of jaw and muscle power to get through one. Believe me- been there, done that. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

Today is a long day, spent mostly on the road, driving to Shemakha and Sheki. We reached Shamakhi around lunch time and eventually Sheki much later, almost at nightfall. More on those in subsequent captions. After an early start from Baku, we decided to stop on the way for a cob of boiled sweet corn. This display of Tklapi (made from fruit puree) reminded me of my trip to Tbilisi, Georgia last year. More notes about Tklapi in the next caption. Displayed as it was on a dusty patch of land on a windy day, right next to a highway with it's constant flow of traffic, I was wondering at the hygiene conditions of this edible product. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

Our driver Bilal very graciously offered to pay for the snack despite my protestations. The team selling appeared to be a father-son duo-
the father was mostly supervising while his son readies the corn for us. The cobs were very nicely served in in tissue, so we could eat and then wipe our hands with it. Their Lada Niva, used to carry all this stuff here was parked with all doors open- not the best of things to do when you are parked on a unsealed patch with the breeze kicking up dust every now and then. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

So here it is, the Lada Niva 4WD car of the corn and pickled vegetable vendors. They had parked the car with all doors open, not the best of things to do in that dusty environment. I was rather disappointed last year in Georgia when I could only take a long shot of a Niva in that country- here in Azerbaijan it was Lada bonanza- I saw several ore that day! The LADA 4x4, formerly called the Lada Niva is an off-road vehicle designed and produced by the Russian (former Soviet) manufacturer AvtoVAZ specifically for the rural market. It was also marketed as the Lada Sport in Iceland, Lada Taiga in Austria, Bognor Diva in Uruguay, the Lada Cossack in the United Kingdom, and is offered since 2009 on most markets as the LADA 4x4. The Lada Niva was the first mass production off-road vehicle to feature monocoque body architecture and independent front suspension with coil springs, and is a predecessor to current crossover SUVs, most of which follow this format. The Lada Niva is said to have inspired the Suzuki Vitara. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

The father and son duo who sell corn and pickled vegetables by the side of the highway on the way from Baku to Shemakha were quite amused at my fascination with their bettered Lada Niva. When he heard that I live in Dubai, the father proudly announced that the tail lamp assembly of the Niva is made in Dubai. Here the son is salting one of our corn cobs under the watchful eye of his father while my guide Ibrahim (foregound- the guy in bermudas) and our drive Bilal (far end)
look on. (Shemakha (Shamakhi), Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

The kvas vendor kindly poses for us- the drink was lovely! Kvass is commonly served unfiltered, with the yeast still in it, which adds to its unique flavour as well as its high vitamin B content. Detailed notes about Kvass appear in previous captions. The drink was so cheap, I was wondering how the poor man even made a living out of it. There were two or three other carts on that stretch of road in the distant suburbs of Baku. (Baku, Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

I'd read about yellow trailers selling a traditional Azeri drink on a website, and still, no one seemed to have heard about it. My guide had heard of it vaguely but said these have all been taken off from the city limits. Imagine my delight when we passed one of those yellow trailers in one of the distant suburbs of Baku! They are selling Kvass. Kvass is a traditional Slavic and Baltic fermented beverage commonly made from rye bread, known in many Eastern European countries and especially in Russia as black bread. The colour of the bread used contributes to the colour of the resulting drink. It is classified as a non-alcoholic drink by Russian standards, as the alcohol content from fermentation is typically low (0.5–1.0%). It may be flavoured with fruits such as strawberries and raisins, or with herbs such as mint. (Baku, Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

It was mission accomplished for me, having found one of those yellow trailers selling kvas. My guide and driver were fascinated as well, as they had not heard of it for a long, long time and had thought the concept had become extinct. All three of us had a glass and it ws supremely delicious. Kvass is especially popular in most of the North Slavic; countries (except for the Czech Republic and Slovakia), as well as Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, and Serbia, but also well-known throughout Mongolia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Arme nia. Many kvass vendors there sell the drink in the streets.Kvass is also popular in Harbin and Xinjiang, China, where Russian culture has had an influence. This is a drink made from fermented rye bread. (Baku, Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)

The kvas vendor fills out a glass for each of us. I was over the moon for having finally tracked down one of these yellow trailers selling this traditional drink. My guide and driver were fascinated too, as they thought the concept had become extinct. Kvass is made by the natural fermentation of bread, such as wheat, rye, or barley, and sometimes flavoured using fruit, berries, raisins, or birch sap collected in the early spring. Modern homemade kvass most often uses black or regular rye bread, usually dried (called plural suhari), baked into croutons, or fried, with the addition of sugar or fruit (e.g. apples or raisins), and with a yeast culture and zakvaska (kvass fermentation starter). As its primary ingredient is rye, kvass is a good source of vitamin B-1 and B-6, magnesium, phosphorus, amino acids, and pantothenate. It is also rich in lactic acid and simple sugars, which contributes to its pleasant, thirst-quenching taste, provides ample calories to fuel physical activity, and may improve digestion, as with other lacto-fermented foods such as yogurt and sauerkraut. How I wish we could find it here in Dubai! Some probiotics would do our system good. (Baku, Azerbaijan, Sept. 2017)