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Travelling along the Tajik–Afghan border, the road clings to the side of steep, dry mountains while the Panj River winds below as a milky turquoise ribbon, sometimes narrow and fast in rock canyons, sometimes spreading into broad, braided channels across pale gravel flats. On the far bank, tiny Afghan villages of mud‑brick houses, terraced fields and poplar trees cluster wherever there is a strip of arable land, backed by the jagged, snow‑capped Hindu Kush rising abruptly behind them.
From the Tajik side, we followed a rough, lonely road carved into the flanks of the Pamir Mountains. The view constantly alternates between close‑in river bends and huge, open valley panoramas where the horizon is a saw‑toothed wall of 6,000–7,000 m peaks.
