At 5:30 AM, Bukhara's old town is a different world — silent, golden, and almost surreal. This morning, I stood before the Po-i-Kalyan complex, where the 12th-century Kalyan Minaret, you see a glimpse of it on the left side of this picture, and the 16th-century Kalyan Mosque face each other in quiet grandeur.
The Kalyan Minaret, built in 1127 by Arslan Khan, rises 45.6 meters. It has survived centuries, including Genghis Khan's invasion, which spared the minaret while destroying much around it. Its brickwork and towering presence have earned it the nickname "Tower of Death," a reference to its use for executions in the past.
The Kalyan Mosque, completed in 1514 under the Shaybanid ruler Ubaydullah Khan, is one of Central Asia's largest mosques. It can accommodate up to 12,000 worshippers. The mosque's design features a vast courtyard surrounded by 288 domes supported by 208 columns.
The complex exudes a timeless serenity in the early morning light, with no crowds. Moments like these make the effort of rising before dawn worthwhile.
