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Set off Lothian Road at the foot of Edinburgh Castle, St Cuthbert’s Church anchors centuries of history in this bustling capital. Known as Edinburgh’s oldest building in terms of foundation—dating back to at least AD 850—and once dubbed the West Church, it was a fashionable sanctuary for the rich burghers of the developing New Town. Its quirky, expansive parish even embraced the castle, accounting for the soldier burials scattered in its graveyard. Today, the church’s dramatic Baroque towers, stunning domed apse, and a rare Tiffany stained glass window testify to a legacy of architectural reinvention and enduring cultural impact.
Brompton cemetery in west London is the burial place for more than 200,000 people. Their lives are commemorated by hundreds of memorials ranging from mausoleums to small marker slabs; there are even catacombs here.
This is one of many memorials which caught my eye: ‘To the Glory of God and in revered and grateful memory of 2625 Pensioners of the Royal Hospital, Chelsea buried around this spot between 1855 and 1893’.
For anyone outside the UK, a Chelsea Pensioner is a retired soldier or non-commissioned officer of the British Army in receipt of a state pension and able to live independently at the Royal Hospital in Chelsea. These men (and now women), in their scarlet tunics, are held in esteem and great affection by the British public. The Royal Hospital, by the way, takes its name from the Latin ‘hospitalis’, meaning a place of hospitality rather than a medical centre. It was founded in 1692 and is still going strong.