In 2023, I travelled through southern iraq and Kurdistan. Rough itinerary: Basrah - southern marshes for the marsh Arabs - Ur and its ziggurat - Najaf - Babylon - Kerbala - Baghdad - Samarra - Hatra - Mosul and Nineveh - Karaqosh - Erbil - Akre for Nowruz - Mar Mattai - Jerwan - Lalish - Al Qosh - Duhok - Ahmedi - Barzan area - Shanidar Cave - back to Erbil - Soran - Rawanduz - Sulaymaniyah - Halabja - Hawraman - Tawella - Sulaymaniyah's Goyzha Mountain - Cyaxares tomb - Koya/Koysinjaq - Erbil.