
We had been warned away from this area by a number of locals but were unable to resist the temptation of a perfect little left-hand point break devoid of crowds. Each time we'd catch a wave, we'd have to walk back along the shore & it was slow going because we had to navigate the stones & detritus with bare feet.
Not far from the cold water, at the frontier where shore stones changed to sparse jungle, lines of junkies sat in sagging cardboard structures & watched us with crazed grins, smoking & sizing us up as we passed. Each time, I'd wave & smile. They inevitably waved back.
Nobody gave us any trouble, & the wave was well worth the detour. Another session for the record books.
IG: @ernestohemingwayo
Website: www.justinoblake.net/